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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.